You better not assume this is just an ordinary bridge hammock.
Version 6.0 was supposed to be a replica of my purple double layer bridge hammock (Check out v5.0) with just one small tweak. But I decided to get crazy and start from the beginning! I have had a hammock/tarp concept in my head since the first day I started tree climbing and this idea has evolved with every trip into the canopy. Seriously, I have tons of doodles laying around my house waiting patiently for transformation.
The concept revolves around building an ultralight hammock/tarp system from the ground up (haha, get it?) specifically for treecamping. I know you are thinking “a 15 ounce hammock is NOT ultra light!” but allow me to explain. This hammock is part of a system that gets rid of many other pieces of gear that are usually required for treecamping. I will not be debuting the entire system until my tarp is completed so for now, just understand that this hammock is just one building block to an ultralight gear system.
9 feet of 1.9 ounce ripstop nylon from Hancock – $12.50 with coupon
42 feet of 9/16″ climbing spec webbing from REI – $13.10
2 spools of thread – $4.00
Work – 4 hours
Finished hammock specs:
38″ wide at the middle (when laid flat)
50″ wide at head and foot (when laid flat)
Nylon material lengths before sewing:
79″ long plus an extra 4″ for hems means 83″ total length.
50″ wide plus an extra 3″ for hems means 53″ but after folding the material in half in order to cut a symmetrical curve on both sides the measured width is 26.5″.
Depth of the curve is 6″ at the midline.
Right side wedding length:
TOTAL right side length is 264″
80″ for tying head end to a tree.
14″ for tying safety line anchor point.
80″ in hammock hem.
90″ for tying foot end to a tree.
Left side webbing length:
TOTAL left side length is 172″
78″ for tying head end to tree.
80″ in hammock hem.
14″ for knot at foot end.
1. Lay out your nylon and cut it to your chosen length (don’t forget to account for your hems).
2. Fold your sheet lengthwise. (Why? It allows you to cut the curve on both sides at the same time. This means both curves will be identical.)
3. Make your material taught by either pinning it to the carpet or using weights on each corner.
4. Measure out 26.5″ from the folded edge at the foot end and head end. Make an “x”.
5. Measure out 20.5″ from the folded edge at the center and mark a “o”.
6. Use a tent pole to draw the curve. Place the pole on your material so that it intersects the “x” and bends down to the “o” then back up to the second “x”.
7. Cut the curve.
8. Hem the head and foot end by rolling it and sewing it.
9. Cut two lengths of webbing.
10. Pin the webbing to the edge of your curve making sure that you have at least six feet of webbing protruding from three corners and at least 14″ protruding from the fourth. (Pinning it is optional, I just hold mine in place while sewing)
11. Sew the webbing to your nylon. Tip: backup your stitch every foot in case a thread gets snagged during your adventures.
12. Roll the webbing once into your material. Make sure it is tightly rolled and sew again.
13. Tightly roll the webbing one more time and sew again.
14. DONE! Go test it out!
…the following steps are not required but are definitely worth the time and effort.
15. Cut out a footbox. I used a big bowl to draw the curve and I used a height of 20 inches high. I like having a foot box so I can throw snacks down there without worrying about them falling.
16. Roll your nylon cutout into the foot end and sew.
17. Cut out four rectangles from your material. My rectangles measure six inches long and three inches wide. These will be used for strengthening the stitches on your hammock’s corners
18. Place them over each corner and sew into place.
19. Sew six vertical AND horizontal stiches across these pieces of material. This will greatly displace the amount of weight on each specific seam.
20. Now you are really done!
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